Lunar Landstar Owner's Handbook (2018)
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Lunar Landstar Owner's Handbook (2018).
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Smoke alarm does not sound upon pressing the test button, or the operating light remains steadily on or off (does not flash every 40 seconds when not in alarm). Possible Cause: Low battery, incorrect battery type, missing battery cover, poor battery connection, or unit damage. | Inspect for obvious damage. Check that the unit contains the recommended battery type, that the battery cover has been removed, and that the battery is properly connected. Gently vacuum using the soft brush attachment. Replace the battery. If these procedures do not correct the problem, do not attempt repairs; replace the smoke alarm. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Carbon monoxide (CO) detector emits an audible 'chirp' once a minute for 30 days (or continues to chirp despite having new batteries). Possible Cause: Low battery, or a fault with the battery, sensor, or circuitry. | Replace the battery to ensure occupant safety. If the device continues to chirp despite having new batteries and the product is still in warranty, contact technical support for the device. If the device is no longer in warranty, replace it immediately. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Water pump operates continuously without stopping. Possible Cause: The fresh water tank has been completely emptied, meaning the pump is unable to pressurise the system. | Switch the pump off using the isolator switch on the control panel until it is possible for the water tank to be refilled, which will prevent damage to the water pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump fails to start when the taps are opened | 1) Check the fuse(s). 2) Check the power source(s), and ensure there is sufficient voltage to run through the pump. 3) Be sure to check the LED is illuminated on the pump. 4) Ensure there is power running to the pump using a multi-meter. If not refer to your dealer as there may be a fault with the fuse box or cable damage. 5) If the pump is hot to touch allow to cool before retrying. 6) Has the vehicle been winterised correctly? If not the pump may have frozen causing permanent damage. 7) An adjustment to the pressure switch may be required. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Pump is running but will not pressurise the water system (little or no water is being discharged from the tap) | 1) Be sure to check there is water in the fresh water tank. 2) Check the in-line filler is free from debris and is correctly fitted. 3) Ensure that the water system has been primed correctly. 4) Check for restrictions in the water systems plumbing. 5) Ensure there is power running to the pump using a multi-meter. If not refer to your dealer as there may be a fault with the fuse box or cable damage. 6) Ensure the inlet side of the pump is water tight and not allowing air into the system. 7) Using a multi-meter check the voltage is between 10 and 14.5 volts. If not, refer to your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Pump continues to run (for more than 5 seconds) after taps are closed or pump turns on for no reason | 1) Check for leaks on the high pressure side of the pump. 2) Check the water system has been primed correctly. 3) Ensure the water pump is securely mounted. 4) Check that the piping on the high pressure side of the pump is in good condition. 5) An adjustment to the pressure switch may be required. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Noisy or rough pump operation | 1) Check for leaks on the high pressure and low pressure side of the pump. 2) Ensure that all pipes within 150mm of the pump are not touching any furniture. 3) Ensure the water pump is securely mounted. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump rapidly cycles or water pulses from the taps | 1) Check for leaks on the high pressure and low pressure side of the pump. 2) Check there are no restrictions in the plumbing. 3) An adjustment to the pressure switch may be required. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: Fresh water tank is empty | Check fresh water tank | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: Pump wired in reverse | Check wiring, check manufacturers instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: Pipe in system has been disconnected | Check pipe connections | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: Kinking in pipes | Check and re-route pipes | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: A blockage in pump inlet or outlet pipe | Inspect water system starting from the fresh water tank | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: Pump filter blockage | Clean filter, check manufacturers instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: Air leak in suction line to the pump | Inspect pipes and pipe joints between the water tank and the pump | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: Frozen pipes | Thaw and inspect pipes for damage | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run Possible Cause: Pump incorrectly wired | Refer to pump manufacturers instruction. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run Possible Cause: Pump fuse blown | Check the wiring connection and then replace with fuse and correct rating. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run Possible Cause: Battery disconnected | Check connections | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run Possible Cause: Pump seized or overheated | Refer to pump manufacturers servicing instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run Possible Cause: Contacts may be faulty | Check contacts in plug and socket are clean and making contact | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run Possible Cause: Wiring connections may be faulty | Check wiring connections | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water is flowing from the cold tap but not the hot Possible Cause: Blockage in the hot pipeline | Disconnect pipes and inspect | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water is flowing from the cold tap but not the hot Possible Cause: Kinked pipes preventing the water to flow | Check and re-route if necessary | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water is flowing from the cold tap but not the hot Possible Cause: Heater non-return valve is jammed | Seek service attention | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Water flows from hot tap but cold tap flow is reduced Possible Cause: Kinked pipe preventing flow | Check and re-route if necessary | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water flows from hot tap but cold tap flow is reduced Possible Cause: Cold pipe line has blockage | Disconnect pipes and 1st connector and inspect up to tap | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water flows from hot tap but cold tap flow is reduced Possible Cause: Cold tap is not connected | Refer to installation instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water flows from hot tap but cold tap flow is reduced Possible Cause: Cold tap blocked or failed | Disconnect and inspect | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from hot and cold taps Possible Cause: Battery condition is low causing pump to run slowly | Check state of battery charge | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from hot and cold taps Possible Cause: If new taps have been fitted they may be reducing flow | Disconnect and check that they have at least 1/4" bore | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from hot and cold taps Possible Cause: Pump needs servicing | Refer to pump servicing instruction | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from hot and cold taps Possible Cause: Partially blocked pump filter or in-line filter, if fitted | Dismantle and clean if necessary | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from hot and cold taps Possible Cause: Outlet pipe kinked restricting flow | Check and re-route if required | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water leak Possible Cause: Loose connections | All water connections must be checked | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from either tap Possible Cause: Pipe kinking restricting the flow | Inspect and re-route if necessary | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from either tap Possible Cause: Bore size different in taps | Use taps of an equal bore size | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: The battery voltage may be too low (below 10.5 volts) or air/leaks in system | Check that there is water in the container, adjust switch or re-charge the battery, check all the connectors in the pipe work. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Connecting lead between the site and Leisure Vehicle not connected | Check and connect lead as per 2.3C | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD switched off | Reset RCD as per 2.3D | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD not operating correctly | Check supply polarity; if the RCD continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: MCB switched off | Reset MCB by switching OFF (down position) then back ON (up position), if the MCB continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No or deficient supply from site | Contact site Warden for assistance | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Reverse Polarity light is illuminated on PSU Possible Cause: Mains Supply reversed? | The reverse polarity light is designed to illuminate when the Live and Neutral supply has been reversed/crossed over. If the light illuminates there is a problem with the site supply or the cable connecting the supply to your vehicle. The light is designed to work on UK electrical supplies (where the neutral conductor is connected to earth at the sub station). If you are using your vehicle outside the UK this light may illuminate when no fault exists. In these cases consult the site warden for advice. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Control Panel backlight / illumination has no display Possible Cause: Backlight may have switched off | Press the select button to reactivate the backlight. Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU shutdown switch and charger switch on and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel. Contact your Dealer | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | 12V power turns off Possible Cause: Battery protect feature has operated to protect the Vehicle battery and or the Leisure battery, or Engine has been started and all equipment has been disconnected to meet EMC requirements | See sections 3.5.3 and 2.7. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel locked / erratic function Possible Cause: Control panel software may have crashed | Observe control panel handling instructions. Reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch. Wait 30 seconds then turn the switch back on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Charger not switched on, battery not connected and/or charged, power button on control panel not switched to on, battery flat / battery fuse blown, fuse blown, equipment switched off / unplugged, or PSU overheated / auto shutdown operated | Check all 230V supply connections. Turn charger switch on (switch will illuminate). Install charged battery as per 3.5. Turn power on at control panel. Recharge battery, check fuses, check charging voltage is present at battery. Check all fuses are intact and the correct value fuse is installed as per fuse table. Check equipment is switched on and connected to the 12V supply. Reduce load on system and allow PSU to cool down; the PSU will automatically restart when cool. If problem persists, contact your Dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown, pump turned off, or setting incorrect | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. Turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel. Ensure the pump setting matches your desired requirement (consult your dealer to alter the setting of the pump switch if required). | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently: Inadequate ventilation to the unit | Check that the ventilation grilles are not covered. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently: Thermostat setting is too low | Set thermostat to a higher level. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently: The condenser is heavily frosted | Check that the refrigerator door closes properly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently: Too much warm food has been stored within short period of time | Allow warm food to cool down before storage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently: The appliance has been running for only a short period of time | Check whether the cooling compartment works after approx. 4-5 hrs. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently: Ambient temperatures too high | Regularly remove ventilation grilles. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode: Gas cylinder empty | Change gas cylinder. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode: Is the upstream shut-off device open? | Open shut-off device. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode: Air in the gas pipe? | Switch off the appliance and start again. Repeat this procedure 3-4 times, if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation: On-board battery discharged | Check battery, charge it. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation: Engine not running | Start engine. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation: Heating element defective | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation: Vehicle not connected to mains supply voltage | Make a connection to a mains power supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation: Heating element defective | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator failure display: LED is flashing 230V mode Possible Cause: "230V" not available or voltage too low | Check mains connection and voltage supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator failure display: LED is flashing 12V mode Possible Cause: "12V" not available or voltage too low | Check 12V supply, battery status, and engine running state. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator failure display: LED is flashing GAS/Auto mode Possible Cause: Flame not ignited | Check gas supply and re-ignite. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator failure display: All temperature setting LEDs are flashing on mid temperature setting Possible Cause: Temperature sensor defective | Contact customer services for repair. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator failure display: LED + all temperature setting LEDs are flashing (230V) Possible Cause: 230V Heating element defective | Contact Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator failure display: LED + all temperature setting LEDs are flashing (12V) Possible Cause: 12V Heating element defective | Contact Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Red LED on the Power Pack does not light Possible Cause: A fault with the coaxial plug or coaxial cable, or the antenna dome cable connected to the 'ANT-IN' socket. | First try unplugging the cable connected to the Antenna Dome from the 'ANT-IN' socket. If the LED then illuminates, the fault lies with either the coaxial plug or the coaxial cable; check that all coaxial plugs in the system are fitted correctly and inspect the cable routing to avoid sharp bends, kinks, hot surfaces, and proximity to electrical cables or transformers that cause electrical interference. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Thule Step does not retract by motor Possible Cause: Dirt, frost, or electrical failure preventing operation. | Take out the footboard by retracting the footboard via the lever switch (S1) when possible not fully, disconnecting the power to the step, removing the nuts at the bottom side to disconnect the 2 drive rods, removing the 2 black stops with the screws at the outside, taking out and cleaning the footboard, and brushing/vacuuming the inside of the step. Never retract or extend the step by hand without this mechanical disconnection, and never use a high pressure cleaner or water. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Fresh water level low warning Possible Cause: Pump turned on and fresh water level low (less than 25% full). | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Waste water level full warning Possible Cause: Pump turned on and waste water level full (tank level 100%). | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Vehicle battery voltage low warning Possible Cause: Control panel power on, vehicle battery selected as the active battery, and voltage level below 10.9V. | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. If no action is taken after 1 minute the system switches to the leisure battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Leisure battery voltage low warning Possible Cause: Control panel power on, leisure battery selected as the active battery, and voltage level below 9V. | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. If no action is taken after 1 minute the system switches the power off to prevent over-discharge of the battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alarm clock active warning Possible Cause: The alarm has been turned on and the alarm time has been reached. | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Engine running warning Possible Cause: The engine is started, so the system power is turned off. | Message on screen (on the EC480 control panel this remains visible for 1 minute). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Step still out warning Possible Cause: The engine is started and the step has failed to retract automatically. | Message on screen and rapid beeps from the control panel. The beeping will not stop until the fault is cleared. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Mains lead (hook-up cable) still connected/plugged in warning Possible Cause: The engine is started and the mains cable is still plugged in and switched on. | Message on screen and repeated beeps from the control panel. The beeping will not stop until the fault is cleared. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I prime the water system?
1) Close the water tank drain valve. 2) Fill the tank with water. 3) Close the water heater drain valve. Open all taps except the shower tap. Mixer taps should be opened in the central position so that both hot and cold pipes are purged of air. 4) Be sure to locate all tap spouts over sinks. 5) Switch on the pump using the function on the control panel. 6) Turn each tap off in turn when the air is expelled and the water runs smoothly from the spout. Move mixer taps to hot and then cold to check that the air is out of both the hot and cold pipes before turning off.
Q: How do I test the carbon monoxide sensor?
All sensors testing should be carried out by a responsible adult once a month. If the alarm is wall mounted, remove by unhooking the unit from the wall fixing screws. Cover the sounder vents with one hand and hold the Test/Reset button down with your thumb/finger until the power LED illuminates green and the sounder sounds for a second time (after 5 seconds). Release the Test/Reset button and the power LED will flash green once every second. Light an incense stick or a cigarette, blow out the flame so it is smouldering, and place the burning source around 15cm (6 inches) below the detector positioned on its side so the right-hand vents point downwards. An increase in CO level over 50ppm will cause the sounder to sound for one cycle of four loud beeps and the power LED will revert to flashing once a minute. Move the CO source away and extinguish it in a dish of water.
Q: How do I prime the motorhome water system?
1) Whilst holding the shower head down towards the shower drain, open the shower tap and shower head tap until all the air is expelled and the water runs smoothly, then turn the shower tap off. 2) Re-fill the fresh water tank with fresh water. Note that priming the water system will automatically fill the water heater with water.
Q: How do I clean and sanitise the water system?
Clean the water system at the start and end of each season using a suitable sterilising fluid. For the separate water containers: empty remaining water, wash exterior, rinse, fill with water containing appropriate sterilising solution for the recommended duration, empty, clean opening with sterilant wipe, and store inverted overnight if possible. For the system: drain off the system, remove water filters and replace with short length of hose or empty filter cartridge, fill the system with disinfectant/sterilising solution until it appears at the taps/shower and allow to stand for the recommended period, completely drain off, clean outside of taps/connectors, and flush with fresh drinking water until no trace of sterilant is detected.
Q: How do I adjust the water pump pressure switch?
All Truma/Flo-Jet pumps are pre-set at 28psi +/- 3psi. To further adjust, remove the cover cap located on the side of the pump to reveal the pressure adjusting screw. A quarter turn clockwise (increases pressure) or anticlockwise (reduces pressure) is the maximum recommendation from the factory setting. Note that the screw located below the cover cap should not be disturbed, and the pump may need to be removed (after draining the system) to gain access.
Q: What should I do when connecting to the mains 230V supply on arrival at a campsite?
1) Check the suitability of the supply (AC/DC, correct voltage, frequency, proper earth). 2) Make sure supply from site is switched off. 3) Make sure the charger switch located on the PSU is switched off. 4) Lift the electricity inlet cover on the motorhome and insert the flexible supply cable connector, then insert the other end into the site supply point socket. 5) Switch on the mains switch at the site supply point. 6) Test the RCD using its test button (ensure lever is up before testing). 7) Check MCBs are in the up (on) position. 8) Ensure the PSU shutdown button is in (on) and turn the charger switch on (button in, illuminates). 9) Check that the reverse polarity indicator is NOT illuminated.
Q: What are the MCB ratings and circuit allocations for the EC500 system?
MCB 1 is rated at 10 Amps with a white output wire, used for 230v Sockets. MCB 2 is rated at 10 Amps with a white output wire (yellow for heater), used for Extra 230v Sockets / Space Heater. MCB 3 is rated at 10 Amps with a black output wire (blue for water heater), used for Fridge / Water Heater / 12v Charger (internally connected).
Q: How does the three-stage battery charger operate?
During stage 1 the battery voltage is increased gradually while the current is limited to start the charging process and protect the battery. At stage 2 the voltage rises to 14.4V to deliver the bulk charge to the battery. When charged, the voltage decreases at stage 3 to 13.6V to deliver a float charge to maintain the battery fully charged.
Q: What type of leisure battery should be used with the system?
It is essential that only a proprietary brand leisure battery is used with a typical capacity of 75 to 120 Ah. A normal vehicle battery is not suitable. Standard lead-acid batteries and most absorbed glass mat (AGM) batteries are compatible.
Q: What happens when the battery voltage falls below the warning thresholds?
If the leisure battery falls below 9V or the vehicle battery falls below 10.9V with the power turned on, a warning beep will sound and information will appear on the screen. If no action is taken when the vehicle battery falls below 10.9V, the system switches from the vehicle battery to the leisure battery. If the leisure battery falls to 9V, the system turns off power as an emergency cut-off to prevent severe damage.
Q: How does the water tank level warning feature operate?
The fresh and waste water tanks incorporate a level warning feature. If the water pump power is turned on and the fresh water level drops below 25% or the waste water level reaches 100% full, a warning beep will sound and a message will be shown on the screen. Press the select button to cancel the warning.
Q: How do I operate the electric step?
Press and release the button near the entry door to move the step in or out. One press moves the step out, and a further press moves it back in. If the engine is started, the step moves in automatically after a short warning buzzer. If it fails due to an obstacle or mechanical failure, a continuous buzzer sounds.
Q: How do I set up the event timer?
Ensure the clock is set to the correct time. Scroll to the System Time Setting screen on the EC480, set the desired ON time and OFF time, and set the Timer to ON so that a stopwatch symbol appears in the header. Turn off all lights and 12v equipment except the specific equipment you want the timer to automatically switch on, then exit the vehicle.
Q: How do I fill the Truma Combi boiler with water?
Ensure that the cold water drain tap is closed (the level should be in the horizontal position). Turn on the hot tap in either the bathroom or the kitchen and position it in the HOT position. Position the handles on the water pump so that it is directed into the heater. Leave the tap open to let the air escape from the water system while the tank is filling. The heater is full once the water flows from the tap.
Q: How do I operate the Dometic refrigerator on gas mode (manual ignition with battery igniter)?
1. Turn the rotary selector switch to the gas position. 2. Turn the temperature selector clockwise and push, keeping the controller button depressed. 3. Press the knob of the battery igniter down and keep it depressed to activate the automatic ignition process. 4. Once the flame ignites, the galvanometer pointer begins moving into the green range. Keep the temperature selector knob depressed for approximately 15 seconds and finally release it.
Q: How do I remove the freezer compartment in the Dometic refrigerator?
Unlock the freezer compartment on both sides, pull the freezer compartment out, and store safely. An additional shelf may then be installed if required.
Q: How do I defrost the Dometic refrigerator?
Switch off the refrigerator, remove all food and the ice cube tray, and leave the door open to allow air to enter and prevent the formation of mildew. After defrosting, wipe both cooling compartments dry with a cloth. Never remove the layer of ice forcibly or accelerate defrosting using a heat source.
Q: How do I prepare and use the Thetford C-200 CS Potti waste holding tank?
Remove the waste holding tank by pulling the safety catch upwards and pulling the tank outwards to the stop, tipping it slightly to take it out completely. Place the tank upright, turn the emptying spout upwards, remove the cap with the measuring cup, pour in the stated quantity of toilet fluid, and add approximately 2 litres of water to cover the bottom. Screw the cap back on, return the spout to its original position, slide the tank back via the access door, and ensure it is secured with the safety catch.
Q: How do I empty and clean the Thetford cassette toilet waste holding tank?
Make sure that the valve blade is closed. Open the access door located outside the vehicle, pull the safety catch upwards and remove the waste holding tank. Carry the tank by the handles to a normal toilet or legal waste disposal site. Place the waste holding tank upright on the ground, turn the emptying spout upwards, and remove the emptying spout cap. Hold the tank by the upper handle nearest to the emptying spout and the rear handle with your other hand so you can operate the vent plunger with your thumb. Keep the vent plunger pressed in (only once the emptying spout is pointing downwards) to ensure the tank is emptied without splashing. After emptying, flush the tank and clean the valve blade thoroughly with water. For storage, empty the central water system by pressing the flush button until remaining water is pumped away, empty the waste holding tank, and leave the cap off the emptying spout to allow the tank to dry. Regularly clean seals and the valve blade with Thetford bathroom cleaner, and coat them lightly with Thetford seal lubricant if unused for a long period (never use Vaseline, vegetable oil, or household cleaners/bleach).
Q: How do I remove the Status TV Antenna or its Pinnacle?
To remove the Pinnacle (to reduce overall height by 90mm), simply unscrew it and remove; the antenna is designed to remain watertight without it. To permanently remove a fitted Status antenna, unplug the antenna from the Power Pack, loosen the two grub screws on the Adapter and lift off whilst carefully feeding out the coaxial cable with plug attached, then push the supplied Blanking Cap into place to cover the central hole.
Q: How do I clean and maintain the Thule Step?
Keep the footboard clean and check the operation of switch (S2) regularly. Dirt and frost can prevent proper operation and should be cleaned or defrosted. To clean inside, retract the footboard via switch (S1) (preferably not fully), disconnect the power, remove the nuts at the bottom of the footboard to disconnect the 2 drive rods, remove the 2 black stops with screws at the outside, and take out the footboard. Brush the inside and vacuum clean—never use a high-pressure cleaner or water. Reconnect the driving rods first, followed by fixing the endstops.
Q: How do I notify Lunar Caravans of a change of ownership?
If you sell your Motorhome or are the new owner, please notify Lunar Caravans of the change of ownership by completing the change of ownership form provided in the handbook and sending it along with the vehicle's service history and a copy of your sales receipt to: Lunar Caravans Limited, After Sales Department, Sherdley Road, Lostock Hall, Preston, PR5 5JF. There is a £50 administration fee for the transfer of ownership, and cheques should be made payable to Lunar Caravans Limited.
Q: Why does my mains hook-up keep tripping the circuit breaker?
The total 230V load in the vehicle should not exceed 16A - or lower still if the site supply protection is only 6A or 10A - otherwise nuisance tripping may occur, or the inlet connector may overload. The space heater in particular may be rated at 2kW on 230V, drawing around 8A, so this is worth taking into account if the site supply protection is only 6A or 10A. It is advisable to check the site's supply rating before switching on two or more loads whose combined draw exceeds it, since this can overload the circuit and trip the breaker.