Lunar Owner's Handbook (2019)
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Lunar Owner's Handbook (2019).
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
N/A | AKS 3004 Stabiliser left/right friction pads worn Possible Cause: Normal wear and tear from use | If the arrowhead on the arm of the stabiliser lines up with the two red lines, the friction pads are worn and should be replaced immediately. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump will not run Possible Cause: Pump could be faulty or a wire disconnected; pump isolating switch is turned off. | Check that the pump isolating switch is turned on. Inspect wiring and pump for faults. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump cycles on/off Possible Cause: Battery voltage may be too low (at or below 10.5 Volts); air or water leaks in taps and piping; non-return valve held open by grit. | Adjust switch and/or recharge battery. Check for air or water leaks in taps and piping and re-adjust pressure switch. Remove the three assembly screws to gain access to the non-return valve and clear any grit. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: Battery voltage may be too low (at or below 10.5 volts); air lock in pump. | Check all connections in the pipe-work. Remove the adjusting screw; if the motor still runs, the pump is probably air locked. Turn off the isolator switch and reprime the pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Fresh water level falls below 25% or waste tank is full Possible Cause: Water tank level threshold reached. | An audible warning will sound for up to 60 seconds and a warning message will display on screen. Press the OK button on the warning message to snooze the warning until the tank is refilled/drained or the power is switched off and back on again. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Fresh water level low (with pump turned on and fresh water level less than 25% full) Possible Cause: On-board fresh water tank level has dropped below 25% | Message on screen and 60 second audible beep. Press the OK button to cancel the warning. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Waste water level full (with pump turned on and waste water level full at 100%) Possible Cause: On-board waste water tank is full | Message on screen and 60 second audible beep. Press the select button to cancel the warning. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Leisure battery voltage low (with control panel power on and leisure battery selected as active battery and voltage level below 9V) Possible Cause: Leisure battery is excessively discharged | Message on screen and 60 second audible beep. If no action taken after 30 seconds then the system will switch the power off to prevent severe discharge of the battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Leisure battery voltage high (with control panel power on or off and leisure battery selected as active battery and voltage level rises above 15V) Possible Cause: Battery voltage exceeding normal parameters, often caused by the solar panel or regulator | Message on screen and repeated beeps from the control panel. The power is automatically turned off. The beeping will not stop until the fault is cleared. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Engine running warning Possible Cause: Engine is started | System power will be turned off. Message on screen, Leisure & Vehicle battery symbols indicating both batteries are connected for charging, and charging voltage shown on screen. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Mains lead (hook-up cable) still connected/plugged in Possible Cause: Engine is started while the mains cable is still plugged in and the charger is switched on | Message on screen and repeated beeps from the control panel. The beeping will not stop until the hook-up lead is removed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Step extended / Step jammed or obstructed Possible Cause: Step extended and engine started, or step movement blocked by an obstacle | Step will move in automatically after a short warning buzzer if engine started. If operation fails due to an obstacle, a buzzer will sound continuously to warn that the step is still out. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Connecting lead between site and caravan not connected, RCD switched off, RCD not operating correctly, MCB switched off, or deficient supply from site | Check and connect lead as per section 2.3C. Reset RCD as per section 2.3D. Check supply polarity; if RCD continues to fail contact your dealer. Reset MCB by switching OFF (down position) then back ON (up position); if MCB continues to fail contact your dealer. Contact site warden for assistance if supply is deficient. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Reverse Polarity light is illuminated on PSU Possible Cause: Mains Supply reversed (Live and Neutral supply reversed/crossed over), or generator being used that centre taps the earth connection making neutral and live 110V above earth | Check site supply or connecting cable (light works on UK electrical supplies where neutral is connected to earth at sub station). If using a generator, consult the generator handbook for further information. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel has no display Possible Cause: Batteries and fuses issue, PSU isolate switch or charger switch turned off, mains supply not connected, or control panel connecting lead loose | Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU isolate switch and charger switch on and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel. Contact your dealer if problem persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | 12V Power turns off Possible Cause: Battery protect feature has operated, over voltage protection activated (common cause is solar panel/regulator), or engine has been started disconnecting equipment to meet EMC requirements | Check battery protect feature details in section 3.4C. Check solar panel regulator is connected correctly and operating within correct parameters. Refer to section 2.6 regarding engine start. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel locked/erratic function Possible Cause: Control panel handling issue or software crash | Observe control panel handling instructions. Reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch, wait 30 seconds then turn the switch back on. Check with your dealer that your system has the latest software installed. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No 230V supply, power button on control panel not switched on, charger not switched on, battery not connected/charged, flat battery, blown battery fuse, blown equipment fuse, or equipment switched off/unplugged | Check 230V supply. Turn power on at control panel. Turn charger switch on. Install charged battery as per section 3.4. Recharge battery, check fuses, and check charging voltage is present. Check all fuses are intact and correct value is installed. Check equipment is switched on and connected to 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown, pump turned off, or other fault | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. Turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel. Contact your dealer if fault persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Lights not working Possible Cause: Fuse/s blown, or lights turned off | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. Turn lights on by pressing the lights button and use dimmer at the control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Fresh water level low (with pump turned on and fresh water level low, less than 25% full) Possible Cause: Fresh water level low | Message on screen and 30 second audible beep. Only available when an onboard tank is fitted. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Leisure battery voltage low (with control panel power on and leisure battery selected and voltage falls below 10V) Possible Cause: Leisure battery voltage low | Message on screen (or flashing LED bar graph on EC350) and 30 second audible beep. If no action taken after 30 seconds then the system will switch the power off to prevent severe discharge of the battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Leisure battery voltage high (with control panel power on or off and leisure battery selected and voltage rises above 15.4V) Possible Cause: Leisure battery voltage high | Message on screen (or flashing LED bar graph on EC350) and repeated beeps from the control panel. The beeping will not stop until the fault is cleared. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Engine running (when engine is started) Possible Cause: Engine started | System power will be turned off. Message on screen (EC360 only) and power button LED flashing indicating both batteries are connected for charging. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Connecting lead between the site and Leisure Vehicle not connected | Check and connect lead as per 2.3C | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD switched off | Reset RCD as per 2.3D | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD not operating correctly | Check supply polarity; if the RCD continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: MCB switched off | Reset MCB by switching OFF (down position) then back ON (up position), if the MCB continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No or deficient supply from site | Contact site Warden for assistance. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Other fault | Contact your Dealer. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Control Panel problems Possible Cause: Control panel has no display | Backlight/illumination may have switched off. Press the power button or select button to reactivate the backlight. Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU shutdown switch and charger switch on and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel. Contact your Dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | 12v Power turns off Possible Cause: Battery protect feature has operated to protect the Vehicle battery and or the Leisure battery | See 3.6. | DIY Safe |
N/A | 12v Power turns off Possible Cause: Engine has been started, all equipment has been disconnected to meet EMC requirements | See 2.4. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control panel locked/erratic function Possible Cause: Control panel handling or software crash | Observe control panel handling instructions. Control panel software may have crashed. Reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch. Wait 30 seconds then turn the switch back on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No 230V supply / Charger not switched on / Battery not connected / Power button off / Battery flat / Fuse blown / Equipment switched off | Check all above. Turn charger switch on (switch will illuminate). Install charged battery as per 3.3. Turn power on at control panel. Recharge battery, check fuses, check charging voltage is present at battery. Check all fuses are intact and the correct value fuse is installed as per fuse table. Check equipment is switched on and connected to the 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | PSU overheated / auto shutdown operated Possible Cause: PSU overheated due to heavy load or restricted ventilation | Reduce load on system. Allow PSU to cool down. PSU will automatically restart when cool. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown / Pump turned off / Setting incorrect | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. Turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel. Ensure the setting matches your desired requirement (both internal and external pump feeds are controlled from the control panel; to alter setting see your dealer). | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Inadequate ventilation to the unit | Check that the ventilation grilles are not covered. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Thermostat setting is too low | Set thermostat to a higher level. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: The condenser is heavily frosted | Check that the refrigerator door closes properly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Too much warm food has been stored inside within short period of time | Allow warm food to cool down before storage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: The appliance has been running for only a short period of time | Check whether the cooling compartment works after approximately 4-5 hours. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Ambient temperatures too high | Regularly remove ventilation grilles. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Gas cylinder empty | Change gas cylinder. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Is the supply shut-off device open? | Open the shut-off device. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Air in the gas pipe | Switch off the appliance and start again. Repeat this procedure 3-4 times, if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: On-board battery discharged | Check battery, charge it. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: Engine not running | Start engine. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: No connection to supply voltage | Establish power connection. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: AES: gas operation despite connection to the supply voltage | Appliance switches to gas operation due to insufficient supply voltage (automatically switches back to 230V operation). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator 230V mode: '230V' not available or voltage too low | Check mains connection and voltage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator 12V mode: '12V' not available or voltage too low | Check 12V supply connection and battery voltage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator GAS/Auto mode: Flame not ignited | Check gas supply, open gas cylinder and shut-off valves, and purge air from lines. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator temperature sensor flashing Possible Cause: Temperature sensor without contact or defective | Check temperature sensor connection or replace if defective. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator 230V heating element flashing Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Replace 230V heating element. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator 12V heating element flashing Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Replace 12V heating element. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator cooling unit or burner flashing Possible Cause: Burner defective or cooling unit defective | Check/replace burner or check cooling unit. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Oven, hob or grill burners burn unevenly Possible Cause: Gas bottle is empty; Gas tap is closed; Burner caps are not correctly positioned; Burners are wet or clogged | Change gas bottle; Open tap; Allow caps to cool, then reposition them; Dry or clean burners. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Oven, hob or grill spark ignition does not spark Possible Cause: 12V DC battery is discharged; Connections are loose; Ignition points are wet or dirty | Charge battery; Secure connections; Dry or clean ignition points. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Oven, hob or grill control knobs do not function Possible Cause: Knobs are mounted incorrectly | Install knobs correctly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating system completely dead, control panel is blank | Check the 20 mm T3.15 Amp glass fuse in the boiler (located under the lid of the black plastic service hatch, in a green plastic fuse holder). Check the 12V supply to the boiler, it should be above 12V. Check the 12V cable is plugged into the boiler and check the cable is plugged into the Alde control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde boiler will not ignite on gas, but no error message Possible Cause: System may not need to use gas heating if also using electric heating, or fluids in the boiler may already be at operating temperature. | Allow system to run or adjust heating settings as required. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde boiler will not heat on 230V electric | Check the circuit breaker and any 230V fuses. Check that any 230V fused spurs are on (they will often have an LED indicator and 230V fuse). Check the 230V supply (also indicated on the Standby Screen). Fluids in the boiler may already be at operating temperature. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde system has no hot water | Check that Hot Water Ignore is not activated on the Alde control panel. Check that Continuous pumping is not activated on the Alde control panel. Check for other conflicting settings on the Alde control panel or restore factory defaults. Check the water pump and cold water supply to the boiler. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde system has no central heating | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank. Check that the circulation pump is responding. Check that hot water boost is not activated on the Alde control panel. If electric heating is not being used, set it to 'Off' on the Alde control panel. Use gas and electric heating for best performance. Check that top and bottom vents in the furniture are not obstructed. Check the condition of the heat transfer fluid. Most vehicles will reach a comfortable temperature within 40 mins, in non-extreme conditions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde circulation pump is noisy | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank. If using the inline pump, check speed dial on pump is set to 2-3. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Alde panel failure 1 or panel failure 2 displayed Possible Cause: Moisture is trapped in the control panel. | Remove the Alde control panel from the vehicle and air in a warm, dry place overnight. | DIY Safe |
Gas failure | Alde gas failure displayed Possible Cause: Out of gas or gas is not igniting. | Check the gas cylinder is full. Try a different gas cylinder, ensuring it is propane gas. Check the gas regulator and any isolation valves are open and not frozen. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Alde overheat red fail or overheat blue fail displayed Possible Cause: 12V supply to the boiler dropped to 7V momentarily. | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank (it should be 1cm above min mark when cool). Check the correct circulation pump is installed, selected and responding. Check 12V supply for stability. Wait 30 minutes for the fluid to cool down. | DIY Safe |
Overheat PCB | Alde overheat PCB displayed Possible Cause: Failsafe in boiler has triggered. | Check the fluid level in the expansion tank (it should be 1 cm above the Min mark when cool). Check the boiler compartment is ventilated and that the vents are unobstructed. Do not place stowage in the boiler compartment. | DIY Safe |
Fan failure | Alde fan failure displayed Possible Cause: Combustion fan speed too low after multiple attempts. Bearing may be stiff after a period of disuse. | Check for instability in 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
Connection failure | Alde connection failure displayed Possible Cause: Loose connection between Alde control panel and boiler. | Unplug cable at the control panel and boiler, then carefully plug back in. Check there is slack on the cable at the control panel, but not excessive weight from free-hanging/unmanaged cable. | DIY Safe |
Window open | Alde window open displayed Possible Cause: Optional window sensor has triggered, gas heating is suspended. | Automatically clears and gas heating resumes when window is closed. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Alde 3rd party panel C. fail displayed Possible Cause: Break in comms between Alde control panel and third party control panel, or third party control panel is installed in software but not fitted. | Check the cable between the Alde control panel and third party control panel. Alternatively, untick 'Third Party Panel' in Installed Accessories Menu. | DIY Safe |
Low battery | Alde low battery displayed Possible Cause: 12V supply to boiler has dropped below 10.5V, possibly causing system brownout. | Automatically clears when 12V supply reaches 11V. | DIY Safe |
No match Heater/Panel | Alde no match heater/panel displayed Possible Cause: EM interference from 230V power if cables are bundled together, or conductive dirt in socket. | Plug Alde control panel cable into the alternative TIN bus sockets. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Very Poor - No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following "Short Hook-Up Test 1". | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Poor - Moderate pixilation and sound distortion | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following "Short Hook-Up Test 1". | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Medium - Minor pixilation will not receive all channels | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following "Short Hook-Up Test 1". | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Strong - Possible pixilation, picture break up and drop out | Reduce the amplifier gain (rotate anti-clockwise). Rotate antenna AWAY from the transmitter. (After performing any actions, re-tune your TV). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Very Strong - No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out | Rotate antenna AWAY from transmitter. Switch 'OFF' the amplifier and turn the gain control to maximum (rotate clockwise). (After performing any actions, re-tune your TV). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna amplifier LED does not light up | Firstly check there is power to the unit. Secondly check the polarity is correct. Otherwise contact the manufacturer for further assistance. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | The central waste tank is too full during a Waste Pump-out system operation Possible Cause: The central waste tank has reached capacity (only measured when this tank has a level indicator). | The button flashes rapidly and no pump-out is possible until you have emptied the central waste tank. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I measure the noseweight of my caravan?
Towing noseweight should be a minimum of 50kg and heavier for twin axle models. This may be measured using a proprietary brand of noseweight indicator obtainable from your Lunar Caravan Dealer. Another simple method is to use bathroom scales under the coupling head with a piece of wood fitted between the coupling head and the scales, of such length that the caravan floor is horizontal with the jockey wheel raised.
Q: How do I prepare the caravan water system for winter to prevent frost damage?
To winterise the water system and prevent expensive permanent damage from freezing temperatures: a) Drain the whole system. b) Open kitchen taps (lever taps should be lifted in the central position) and leave them open permanently after drain down. c) Open bathroom and shower taps (including the shower on/off control rose) and leave open permanently. d) Shake the shower head to remove water held there and in the hose, and it is recommended to remove the shower head from the hose. e) Remove the cold water drain plug (if fitted), normally located under the caravan near the water inlet socket. f) If possible remove any remaining water from system plumbing at water inlet sockets and in between in-line pressure switch plumbing. g) Disconnect cartridge or in-line filters from plumbing. h) Submersible pumps should be shaken out and stored in a dry place. i) Drain the external shower bridge connection on the Ultraflow housing by inserting the shower connection or opening the valve using a tool to push on the black rubber pad of the valve.
Q: How do I use the caravan water system with the internal water tank?
To use the caravan with the internal water tank: 1. Connect the external pump to the left connection point on the outside of the caravan. 2. Ensure that the tank drain valve is in the closed position with the handle horizontal. 3. Rotate the handle of the red selector valve anti-clockwise to select internal tank as the water source. 4. Use the control panel menu to switch on the external pump by scrolling through until 'Tank Fill' appears and selecting it. 5. The pump will run for around 7 minutes or shut off when the tank reaches full. 6. Water will be transferred from the external container to the internal tank, and the level can be checked on the control panel gauge. 7. Once the level is at 1/4 or higher, taps can be used as normal. 8. Press the 'water pump' button to switch on the internal pump.
Q: How do I sterilise the water system?
1. Fill the system by using the pump with a disinfectant/sterilant solution ensuring it appears at all taps/showers. 2. Allow to stand for the recommended period. 3. Drain the system down using the internal flip switch under the front off-side bed. 4. Clean the outside of all taps/connectors with a cloth soaked in the solution. 5. Flush the system through with clean drinking water until no traces can be detected. 6. Replace the filter.
Q: How do I prime the water system if fitted with a submersible pump?
Trapped air in the submersible pump will not allow it to prime. Air can be released by gently shaking the pump under water while the pump is in the water tank but is switched off. If an external submersible pump is used, place the pump in the water before connecting to the side of the van.
Q: How do I adjust the pressure switch?
1. With the system properly primed, close all taps and showers. 2. Leave the power supply turned on. 3. Tighten the adjusting screw clockwise until the pump runs. 4. Partly open one cold tap to allow water to flow at about 1 pint per 15 seconds. 5. Slowly loosen the adjusting screw until the switch starts to click and is properly adjusted.
Q: Why does my mains hook-up keep tripping the circuit breaker?
It is possible that all of the 230V mains electrical equipment cannot be operated simultaneously due to the maximum output limit of the site supply (e.g. 16 amps, 10 amps, or as low as 5 amps). You need to add together the consumption figures of the items used simultaneously to ensure they do not exceed the site supply limit. Typical consumption figures are: Fridge 0.5 amps, Charger 1.0 amps, Water heater (max) 5.7 amps, Blown air heaters 4.8 amps, Colour TV 2.5 amps, Microwave 3.5 amps, Air conditioning 4.0 amps, Truma Ultraheat (max) 8.3 amps, Kettle 3.2 amps, Alde central heating 10.0 amps.
Q: How do I activate the EC175 electrical system after storage?
Ensure the system shutdown switch on the PSU is in the on position (press button in; button in = on, button out = off). For the EC700 system, turn on the PSU isolate switch and charger switch.
Q: What should I check before connecting the leisure vehicle to the mains 230V supply?
Ensure suitability of the mains supply (meeting BS7671 or relevant standards). Locate the green 'Charger' power switch on the PSU and ensure it is in the off position (button out) before connection. Connect the hook-up lead to the leisure vehicle first, then to the mains supply. Check RCD operation using the test button, ensure MCBs are in the up position, turn the PSU shutdown switch ON, and turn the charger switch ON.
Q: How do I operate the water tank frost protection heaters?
The water tank heaters can be switched on via the control panel power settings screen (the tank heater symbol will light up blue when enabled). They will only operate automatically if there is over 25% water in the relevant tank and the external temperature sensor detects the temperature falling below 2 degrees C.
Q: Which MCB protects which circuit, and why might one trip specifically?
The miniature circuit breakers (MCBs) protect the wiring installation from overload or short circuit. If an overload occurs, the MCB will switch off the supply. The MCB ratings for the system circuits are: MCB 1 (10 Amps, 230V Sockets), MCB 2 (16 Amps, Extra 230V Sockets / Heating System), and MCB 3 (10 Amps, Fridge / 12V Charger / Aircon). If the circuit breaker trips, investigate the cause of the overload before resetting the MCB by switching it OFF then back ON.
Q: What type of leisure battery should be used with the electrical system?
It is essential that only a proprietary brand leisure battery is used with a typical capacity of 75 to 120 Ah (Ampere / hours). A normal vehicle battery is NOT suitable. The PSU is configured to work with standard lead acid leisure batteries, and in most cases is also compatible with Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries. Ensure correct polarity (black negative, red positive) is observed and securely fastened without crocodile clips.
Q: Why does the Reverse Polarity warning light on the PSU illuminate when using a generator?
This is a normal side effect when using some types of generator. Instead of connecting the neutral conductor to earth, some generators centre tap the earth connection making both neutral and live conductors 110V above earth, which causes the neon polarity indicator to illuminate.
Q: How do I defrost the refrigerator?
Switch off the refrigerator. Remove all food and the ice cube tray. Leave the refrigerator door open to allow air to enter and to prevent formation of mildew. After defrosting (freezer compartment and fins free of frost), wipe both cooling compartments dry with a cloth. Note that the layer of ice must never be removed forcibly, nor may defrosting be accelerated using a heat source.
Q: How do I fill the Truma Combi boiler unit with water?
Ensure that the cold water drain tap is closed (the level should be in the horizontal position). Turn on the hot tap in either the bathroom or the kitchen and position the tap in the HOT position. Position the handles on the water pump so that it is directed into the heater. Leave the tap open to let the air escape from the water system while the tank is filling. The heater is full once the water flows from the tap.
Q: How do I operate the Status TV antenna to locate a signal?
1. Loosen the Mast Locking Collar and raise the antenna. 2. Determine whether TV transmissions are horizontal or vertical and position accordingly. 3. Switch on the Amplifier (LED will illuminate) and check the gain is set to MIN by rotating the button anti-clockwise. 4. Rotate the antenna: RED means poor signal (keep turning), YELLOW means getting better (slow down), and GREEN means signals are located and ready to go. 5. If there is no GREEN, increase the gain and repeat the 360-degree rotation. 6. Once the transmitter has been located, increase the Gain to MAX. 7. Turn on your television set and tune in (necessary at all new locations). 8. Secure the antenna by hand tightening the Mast Locking Collar.
Q: How do I adjust the tension on the flyscreens and sunscreens?
The tension adjustment clips are located at the left side of the cassette (the top one is for the flyscreen and the lower one for the sunscreen). Insert a screwdriver into the tension clip, apply gentle inward pressure and rotate the tension clip one or two clockwise turns to increase tension, or anti-clockwise to reduce tension. Gently release the inward pressure to enable the tension clip to re-engage into its internal ratchet. Check tension and repeat if necessary until the crossbars return to their top positions without too much tension or assistance. Do not overtension.
Q: How do I validate my Lunar caravan warranty?
Your warranty commences on the day your new caravan is purchased and ends on the anniversary of that date in the 6th year. You must complete the 'Validate your Warranty' section located on the Lunar website at http://www.lunarcaravans.com/validate-your-warranty within 28 days of purchase. If you experience problems or do not have access to a computer, contact your dealership to do this on your behalf.
Q: What are the service interval requirements to maintain the Lunar warranty?
In years 1, 3, and 6, the service must be completed no more than 60 days before or on the anniversary of the date of purchase and must not exceed that date. In years 2, 4, and 5, services must be completed no more than 60 days either side of the anniversary date. No service interval should exceed 14 months.
Q: How do I transfer the warranty to a new owner if I sell my caravan?
The warranty may be transferred if the caravan has been regularly serviced by a Lunar or NCC Approved Workshop (AWS). The transfer must be made within 28 days of the subsequent ownership change. You must provide full documentary evidence of annual servicing along with the sales receipt and a completed change of ownership form. An administration fee of £50 is required (cheques made payable to Lunar Caravans Limited), sent to the After Sales Department at Sherdley Road, Lostock Hall, Preston, PR5 5JF.