Lunar Roadstar & Cassini Owner's Handbook (2018)
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Lunar Roadstar & Cassini Owner's Handbook (2018).
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Smoke alarm: The alarm does not sound upon pressing the test button, or the operating light remains steadily on or off (i.e. does not flash every 40 seconds when the unit is not in alarm) | Inspect for obvious damage. Check that the unit contains recommended battery type. Check that the battery cover has been removed. Check that the battery is properly connected. Gently vacuum using the soft brush attachment. Replace battery. If these procedures do not correct the problem, DO NOT attempt repairs; replace the smoke alarm. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Carbon Monoxide alarm: An audible 'chirp' occurs once a minute for 30 days indicating a fault with the battery, sensor or circuitry including a low battery Possible Cause: Low battery, sensor, or circuitry fault | The battery must be replaced to ensure occupant safety. If the device continues to chirp despite having new batteries and the product is still in warranty then contact technical support for the device. If the device is no longer in warranty replace it immediately. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Water pump operates continuously because the fresh water tank has been completely emptied and the pump is unable to pressurise the system Possible Cause: Fresh water tank is empty, preventing the pump from reaching its pre-set pressure | Switch the pump off using the isolator switch on the control panel until it is possible for the water tank to be refilled; this will prevent damage to the water pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump fails to start when the taps are opened | 1) Check the fuse(s). 2) Check the power source(s), and ensure there is sufficient voltage to run through the pump. 3) Be sure to check the LED is illuminated on the pump. 4) Ensure there is power running to the pump using a multi-meter. If not refer to your dealer as there may be a fault with the fuse box or cable damage. 5) If the pump is hot to touch allow to cool before retrying. 6) Has the vehicle been winterised correctly? If not the pump may have frozen causing permanent damage. 7) An adjustment to the pressure switch may be required. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | The pump is running but will not pressurise the water system (little or no water is being discharged from the tap) | 1) Be sure to check there is water in the fresh water tank. 2) Check the in-line filler is free from debris and is correctly fitted. 3) Ensure that the water system has been primed correctly. 4) Check for restrictions in the water systems plumbing. 5) Ensure there is power running to the pump using a multi-meter. If not refer to your dealer as there may be a fault with the fuse box or cable damage. 6) Ensure the inlet side of the pump is water tight and not allowing air into the system. 7) Using a multi-meter check the voltage is between 10 and 14.5 volts. If not, refer to your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Pump continues to run (for more than 5 seconds) after taps are closed or pump turns on for no reason | 1) Check for leaks on the high pressure side of the pump. 2) Check the water system has been primed correctly. 3) Ensure the water pump is securely mounted. 4) Check that the piping on the high pressure side of the pump is in good condition. 5) An adjustment to the pressure switch may be required. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Noisy or rough pump operation | 1) Check for leaks on the high pressure and low pressure side of the pump. 2) Ensure that all pipes within 150mm of the pump are not touching any furniture. 3) Ensure the water pump is securely mounted. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump Rapidly Cycles or water pulses from the taps | 1) Check for leaks on the high pressure and low pressure side of the pump. 2) Check there are no restrictions in the plumbing. 3) An adjustment to the pressure switch may be required. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: Fresh water tank is empty; Pump wired in reverse; Pipe in system has been disconnected; Kinking in pipes; A blockage in pump inlet or outlet pipe; Pump filter blockage; Air leak in suction line to the pump; Frozen pipes | Check fresh water tank; Check wiring and check manufacturer's instructions; Check pipe connections; Inspect water system starting from the fresh water tank; Clean filter and check manufacturer's instructions; Inspect pipes and pipe joints between the water tank and the pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run Possible Cause: Pump incorrectly wired; Pump fuse blown; Battery disconnected; Pump seized or overheated; Pump pressure sensing switch may have failed; Contacts may be faulty; Wiring connections may be faulty | Refer to pump manufacturer's instructions; Check wiring connection and replace with fuse of correct rating; Check connections; Refer to pump manufacturer's servicing instructions; Check contacts in plug and socket are clean and making contact; Check wiring connections. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water is flowing from the cold tap but not the hot Possible Cause: Blockage in the hot pipeline; Kinked pipes preventing the water to flow; Hot tap blocked or failed; Heater non-return valve is jammed | Disconnect pipes and inspect; Check and re-route if necessary; Seek service attention. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Water flows from hot tap but cold tap flow is reduced Possible Cause: Kinked pipe preventing flow; Cold pipe line has blockage; Cold tap is not connected; Cold tap blocked or failed | Check and re-route if necessary; Disconnect pipes and 1st connector and inspect up to tap; Refer to installation instructions; Disconnect and inspect. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from hot and cold taps Possible Cause: Battery condition is low causing pump to run slowly; If new taps have been fitted they may be reducing flow; Pump needs servicing; Partially blocked pump filter or in-line filter, if fitted; Outlet pipe kinked restricting flow; Water leak; Bore size different in taps | Check state of battery charge; Disconnect and check that they have at least 1/4" bore; Refer to pump servicing instruction; Dismantle and clean if necessary; Check and re-route if required; All water connections must be checked; Use taps of an equal bore size. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from either tap Possible Cause: Pipe kinking restricting the flow; Bore size different in taps | Inspect and re-route if necessary; Use taps of an equal bore size. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: The battery voltage may be too low (below 10.5 volts) | Check that there is water in the container. Adjust switch or re-charge the battery. Check all the connectors in the pipe work. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Fresh water level low Possible Cause: With pump turned on and fresh water level low (less than 25% full) | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. Press the select button to cancel the warning. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Waste water level full Possible Cause: With pump turned on and waste water level full (tank level 100%) | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. Press the select button to cancel the warning. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Vehicle battery voltage low Possible Cause: With control panel power on and vehicle battery selected (as active battery) and voltage level below 10.9V | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. If no action taken after 1 minute then the system will switch to the leisure battery. Press the select button to cancel the warning. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Leisure battery voltage low Possible Cause: With control panel power on and leisure battery selected (as active battery) and voltage level below 9V | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. If no action taken after 1 minute then the system will switch the power off to prevent over discharge of the battery. Press the select button to cancel the warning. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alarm clock active Possible Cause: When alarm has been turned on and alarm time has been reached | Message on screen and 1 minute audible beep. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Engine running Possible Cause: When the engine is started the system power will be turned off | Message on screen, on EC480 this will remain visible for 1 minute. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Step still out Possible Cause: When the engine is started and the step has failed to retract automatically from the control panel | Message on screen and rapid beeps from the control panel. The beeping will not stop until the fault is cleared. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Mains lead (hook-up cable) still connected / plugged in Possible Cause: When the engine is started and the mains cable is still plugged in and switched on | Message on screen and repeated beeps from the control panel. The beeping will not stop until the fault is cleared. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Connecting lead between the site and Leisure Vehicle not connected | Check and connect lead as per section 2.3C. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU (RCD switched off) Possible Cause: RCD switched off | Reset RCD as per section 2.3D. | DIY Safe |
N/A | RCD not operating correctly Possible Cause: RCD not operating correctly | Check supply polarity; if the RCD continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | MCB switched off Possible Cause: MCB switched off due to overload or short circuit | Reset MCB by switching OFF (down position) then back ON (up position). If the MCB continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No or deficient supply from site Possible Cause: Supply issues from the site | Contact site Warden for assistance. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Reverse Polarity light is illuminated on PSU Possible Cause: Mains Supply reversed / Live and Neutral supply has been reversed/crossed over | The reverse polarity light is designed to illuminate when the Live and Neutral supply has been reversed/crossed over. There is a problem with the site supply or the cable connecting the supply to your vehicle. The light is designed to work on UK electrical supplies (where the neutral conductor is connected to earth at the sub station). If you are using your vehicle outside the UK this light may illuminate when no fault exists. In these cases consult the site warden for advice. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Control Panel problems - Control Panel has no backlight / illumination Possible Cause: Backlight/illumination may have switched off | Press the select button to reactivate the backlight. Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU shutdown switch and charger switch on and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel. Contact your Dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Control Panel problems - 12V power turns off Possible Cause: Battery protect feature has operated to protect the Vehicle battery and or the Leisure battery, or engine has been started and all equipment has been disconnected to meet EMC requirements | See section 3.5.3 for battery protect details and section 2.7 for engine start requirements. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel problems - Control Panel locked / erratic function Possible Cause: Control panel software may have crashed | Observe control panel handling instructions. Reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch. Wait 30 seconds then turn the switch back on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Charger not switched on, battery not connected and/or charged, power button on control panel not switched to on, battery flat / battery fuse blown, fuse blown, equipment switched off / unplugged, or PSU overheated / auto shutdown operated | Turn charger switch on (switch will illuminate). Install charged battery as per section 3.5. Turn power on at control panel. Recharge battery, check fuses, check charging voltage is present at battery. Check all fuses are intact and the correct value fuse is installed as per fuse table. Check equipment is switched on and connected to the 12V supply. If PSU overheated, reduce load on system, allow PSU to cool down (PSU will automatically restart when cool). If other fault, contact your Dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown, pump turned off, or setting incorrect | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. Turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel. Ensure the setting matches your desired requirement (both internal and external pump feeds are controlled from the control panel; to alter the setting of the pump switch see your dealer). | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Alde heating: The system is completely dead, the control panel is blank | Check the 20 mm T3.15 Amp glass fuse in the boiler (located under the lid of the black plastic service hatch, in a green plastic fuse holder). Check the 12 V supply to the boiler, it should be above 12 V. Check the 12 V cable is plugged into the boiler. Check the cable is plugged into the Alde control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: The boiler will not heat on 230 V electric | Check the circuit breaker and any 230 V fuses. Check that any 230 V fused spurs are on (they will often have an LED indicator and 230 V fuse). Check the 230 V supply (also indicated on the Standby Screen). The fluids in the boiler may already be at operating temperature. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: No hot water | Check that Hot Water Ignore is not activated on the Alde control panel. Check that Continuous pumping is not activated on the Alde control panel. Check for other conflicting settings on the Alde control panel or restore factory defaults. Check the water pump and cold water supply to the boiler. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: No central heating | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank. Check that the circulation pump is responding. Check that hot water boost is not activated on the Alde control panel. If electric heating is not being used, set it to 'Off' on the Alde control panel. Use gas and electric heating for best performance. Check that top and bottom vents in the furniture are not obstructed. Check the condition of the heat transfer fluid. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: Circulation pump is noisy | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank. If the inline pump, check speed dial on pump is set to 2-3. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Panel failure 1” & "Panel failure 2" Possible Cause: Moisture is trapped in the control panel. | Remove the Alde control panel from the vehicle and air in a warm, dry place overnight. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Gas failure” Possible Cause: Out of gas or gas is not igniting. | Check the gas cylinder is full. Try a different gas cylinder, ensuring it is propane gas. Check the gas regulator and any isolation valves are open and not frozen. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Overheat red fail” or "Overheat blue fail" Possible Cause: 12 V supply to the boiler dropped to 7 V momentarily. | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank (it should be 1cm above min mark when cool). Check the correct circulation pump is installed, selected and responding. Check 12 V supply for stability. Wait 30 minutes for the fluid to cool down. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Overheat PCB” Possible Cause: Failsafe in boiler has triggered. | Check the fluid level in the expansion tank (it should be 1 cm above the Min mark when cool). Check the boiler compartment is ventilated and that the vents are unobstructed. Do not place stowage in the boiler compartment. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Fan failure” Possible Cause: Combustion fan speed too low after multiple attempts. Bearing may be stiff after a period of disuse. | Check for instability in 12 V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Connection failure” Possible Cause: Loose connection between Alde control panel and boiler. | Unplug cable at the control panel and boiler, then carefully plug back in. Check there is slack on the cable at the control panel, but not excessive weight from free-hanging/unmanaged cable. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Window open” Possible Cause: Optional window sensor has triggered, gas heating is suspended. | Automatically clears and gas heating resumes when window is closed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “3rd Party Panel C. Fail” Possible Cause: Break in comms between Alde control panel and third party control panel, or third party control panel is installed in software but not fitted. | Check the cable between the Alde control panel and third party control panel. Untick "Third Party Panel" in Installed Accessories Menu. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Low battery” Possible Cause: 12 V supply to boiler has dropped below 10.5 V, possibly causing system brownout. | Automatically clears when 12 V supply reaches 11 V. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “No match Heater/Panel” Possible Cause: EM interference from 230 V power if cables are bundled together, or conductive dirt in socket. | Plug Alde control panel cable into the alternative TIN bus sockets. | DIY Safe |
Flashing LED (230V mode) | Refrigerator 230V mode: “230V” not available or voltage too low | Check 230V mains supply and connections. | DIY Safe |
Flashing LED (12V mode) | Refrigerator 12V mode: “12V” not available or voltage too low | Check 12V supply, battery, and engine running status. | DIY Safe |
Flashing LED (GAS/Auto mode) | Refrigerator GAS/Auto mode: Flame not ignited | Check gas supply, cylinder, and bleed gas lines if necessary. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Refrigerator: Temperature sensor defective | Contact customer services / authorized service centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
Operational Fault | Refrigerator: 230V Heating element defective | Please inform Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
Operational Fault | Refrigerator: 12V Heating element defective | Please inform Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Inadequate ventilation to the unit, thermostat setting is too low, condenser is heavily frosted, too much warm food stored within short period of time, appliance running for only a short period, or ambient temperatures too high. | Check that the ventilation grilles are not covered. Set thermostat to a higher level. Check that the refrigerator door closes properly. Allow warm food to cool down before storage. Check whether the cooling compartment works after approx. 4-5 hrs. Regularly remove ventilation grilles. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Gas cylinder empty, upstream shut-off device closed, or air in the gas pipe. | Change gas cylinder. Open shut-off device. Switch off the appliance and start again; repeat this procedure 3-4 times, if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective, on-board battery discharged, engine not running, or heating element defective. | Fit new fuse. Check battery, charge it. Start engine. Please inform Dometic Customer Services. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective, vehicle not connected to mains supply voltage, or heating element defective. | Fit new fuse. Make a connection to a mains power supply. Please inform Dometic Customer Services. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Microwave does not start cooking when the START button is pushed Possible Cause: Obstructions in the area between the door and door seal, or the door is not closed securely | Check the area between the door and door seal for obstructions, make sure the door is closed securely, and ensure the door is completely closed or the program has been reset. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Central waste tank is too full during Cassette Toilet waste pump-out Possible Cause: Central waste tank has reached maximum capacity (only measured when this tank has a level indicator) | Empty the central waste tank before attempting to use the pump-out system again. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Very Poor (No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out) | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. Re-tune your TV after performing any action. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Poor (Moderate pixilation and sound distortion) | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. Re-tune your TV after performing any action. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Medium (Minor pixilation will not receive all channels) | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. Re-tune your TV after performing any action. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Strong (Possible pixilation, picture break up and drop out) | Reduce the amplifier gain (rotate anti-clockwise). Rotate antenna AWAY from the transmitter. Re-tune your TV after performing this action. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Very Strong (No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out) | Rotate antenna AWAY from transmitter. Switch 'OFF' the amplifier and turn the gain control to maximum (rotate clockwise). Re-tune your TV after performing this action. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna amplifier LED does not light | Firstly check there is power to the unit. Secondly check the polarity is correct. Otherwise contact the manufacturer for further assistance. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Project 2000 Step: Audible warning sounds when the ignition is switched on Possible Cause: The step is left extended while the vehicle ignition is switched on | Push the step fully home to cancel the audible warning. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I prime the water system?
1) Close the water tank drain valve. 2) Fill the tank with water. 3) Close the water heater drain valve. Open all taps except the shower tap. Mixer taps should be opened in the central position so that both hot and cold pipes are purged of air. 4) Be sure to locate all tap spouts over sinks. 5) Switch on the pump using the function on the control panel. 6) Turn each tap off in turn when the air is expelled and the water runs smoothly from the spout. Move mixer taps to hot and then cold to check that the air is out of both the hot and cold pipes before turning off. 7) Whilst holding the shower head down towards the shower drain, open the shower tap and shower head tap until all the air is expelled and the water runs smoothly, then turn the shower tap off. 8) Re-fill the fresh water tank with fresh water.
Q: How do I test the carbon monoxide detector sensor?
If the alarm is wall mounted, remove by unhooking the unit from the wall fixing screws. Cover the sounder vents with one hand and hold the Test/Reset button down with your thumb/finger until the power LED illuminates green and the sounder sounds for a second time (after 5 seconds). Release the Test/Reset button and the power LED will flash green once every second, indicating increased sampling rate. Light an incense stick or cigarette, blow out the flame so it is smouldering, and hold it around 15cm (6 inches) below the detector turned on its side. An increase in localized CO level above 50ppm will cause the sounder to sound for one cycle of four loud beeps and the power LED will revert to flashing once a minute. Move the source of CO away and extinguish it in a dish of water. (Note: if CO level does not reach 50ppm, the test stops automatically after 3 minutes).
Q: How do I clean and sanitise the motorhome water system?
Flush the system through at the start and end of each season using a sterilising fluid to remove effective fluid traces. For sanitising the system: 1) Drain off the system (open all taps to allow air in). 2) Remove any water filters and replace with a short length of hose or empty filter cartridge. 3) Fill the water system with disinfectant/sterilising solution until it appears at full strength at the taps/shower, and allow to stand for the recommended period. 4) Completely drain off the water system. 5) Clean the outside of all taps/connectors with a cloth soaked in disinfectant/sterilant. 6) Use fresh drinking water to flush the system until there is no trace of the disinfectant/sterilant detected from any tap. Note: Do not use bleach or sodium metabisulphite.
Q: How do I operate the EC480 digital control panel buttons and features?
Power Button: press to turn leisure power on/off (adjacent LED illuminates, voltage displayed). Pump Button: with power on, press to turn water pump on/off (adjacent LED illuminates, tank level displayed). Light Button: with power on, press to turn main internal lighting on/off (adjacent LED illuminates). Battery Select: default is leisure battery if no mains present; press vehicle battery select button to change active battery. Awning Light Button: press to turn awning light on/off (adjacent LED illuminates). Frost Protect Button: press to turn water tank heating system on/off when installed (adjacent LED illuminates). Light Dimming Button: with power and lights on, press to adjust light level on dimming circuit. Select: press to select options/items, cancel alarms/warnings, or reactivate screen backlight/illumination. Scroll Down: use to scroll through menu/screen items or make setting adjustments.
Q: How does the battery charger / power converter operate?
The EC500 system incorporates an intelligent three-stage battery charger / power converter. Stage 1: battery voltage is increased gradually while current is limited to start charging and protect the battery. Stage 2: voltage rises to 14.4V to deliver bulk charge. Stage 3: voltage decreases to 13.6V to deliver float charge to maintain the battery fully charged. The charger can be left switched on continuously as required.
Q: What battery type and capacity should be used for the leisure battery?
Only use a proprietary brand leisure battery with a typical capacity of 75 to 120 Ah (Ampere / hours). A normal vehicle battery is NOT suitable. It should always be connected when the system is in use. The PSU is configured for standard lead-acid leisure batteries and is compatible with most AGM batteries. Ensure replacement batteries are of the same type and specification.
Q: How do I set the clock, alarm, and event timer on the control panel?
Navigate to the Time and Timer Event Settings screen. Press the select button to move through each setting and use the up/down buttons to adjust: Set Clock Time (adjust hour then minutes); Set Alarm Time (adjust hour, minutes, and alarm on/off; a bell symbol appears in the header when on); Set Timer event on Time (adjust hour and minutes); Set Timer event off Time (adjust hour, minutes, and timer on/off; a stopwatch symbol appears in the header when on). Press select again to exit settings.
Q: How do I operate the microwave oven?
Plug the power supply cord into a 230V AC 50Hz power outlet. Press the eco button until a beep sounds and the display turns on. Place food in a suitable container on the glass tray inside the oven (ensure the glass tray and roller guide are always in place). Close the door securely. The oven automatically cooks on full power unless set to a lower power level using the POWER button. Set the cooking time using the TIME SET BUTTON and press START/+30 SEC to begin. You can open the door at any time to pause operation, and press START to resume. Press STOP/CLEAR to stop or delete cooking data.
Q: How do I check whether the Thetford Cassette Toilet has a 1-level or 3-level indication?
Make sure the waste-holding tank is empty and place it back properly. Then activate the control panel. If no level indication light lights up, your toilet has a 1-level indication (it will only indicate a full tank). If a green level indication light immediately lights up, your toilet has a 3-level indication (it will indicate empty, half full, and full).
Q: How do I perform Short Hook-Up Test 1 to troubleshoot the Status TV antenna system?
This test isolates the wiring from the Amplifier through to your TV/Radio points. Unplug the coaxial plugs from the 'TV' sockets of the Amplifier and using your TV fly lead with Convertor 1 supplied, connect your TV to the Amplifier. Please ensure the Antenna Dome is plugged directly into the 'ANT-IN' socket of the Amplifier and switch on. Tune in your TV for the strongest signal. If the picture quality improves, the fault lies with the wiring of the system between the Amplifier and the TV outlet socket.
Q: How do I perform Short Hook-Up Test 2 to troubleshoot the Status TV antenna system?
This test isolates the Amplifier by connecting your TV direct to the Antenna. Unplug the Antenna from the Amplifier and connect Connector 2 supplied to the plug on the cable end. Using your TV flylead, connect the antenna directly to your TV. Tune in your TV for the strongest signal. If the picture quality improves, the fault lies with the Vision Plus Amplifier.
Q: How do I operate and position the swivel seat?
To turn the swivel, locate the handle at the front of the seat, pull the handle upwards, and swivel the seat to the desired angle. Before driving off, make sure the seat is locked securely into the forward-facing position.
Q: How is the Day Time Table stored and mounted for the TI model?
The table is stored under the rear bed frame. Lift the bed, release the press stud straps holding the table slotted into the frame, and slide the table out. To mount it in the second row passenger seating area, hook the table onto the rail under the window and lock it in position by sliding the two catches into position. Release the leg, lock it into the down position, and lower the table. The swing-out leaf is released by pulling down the knob underneath the table and rotating it to the desired position.
Q: How do I overcome and manage condensation in the motorhome?
Condensation occurs when humidity inside the motorhome exceeds 60% and ventilation is insufficient. To help reduce it: (a) Do not wash crockery last thing at night; (b) Do not boil water last thing at night and empty all water from kettles; (d) Keep temperature at night to a minimum; (e) Increase ventilation to above normal in inclement or very wet weather.
Q: Which MCB protects which circuit, and why might one trip specifically?
The Miniature Circuit Breakers (MCBs) protect the wiring installation from overload or short circuit. If an overload occurs, the MCB will switch off (trip) the supply - investigate the cause of the fault before switching the MCB back on. The MCB ratings and circuit allocation are: MCB 1 (10 Amps, white wire, 230V Sockets), MCB 2 (10 Amps, white/yellow wire, Extra 230V Sockets / Space Heater), and MCB 3 (10 Amps, black/blue wire, Fridge / Water Heater / 12V Charger, internally connected).
Q: Why does my mains hook-up keep tripping the circuit breaker?
The total 230V load in the vehicle should not exceed 16A - or lower still if the site supply protection is only 6A or 10A - otherwise nuisance tripping may occur, or the inlet connector may overload. The space heater in particular may be rated at 2kW on 230V, drawing around 8A, so this is worth taking into account if the site supply protection is only 6A or 10A. It is advisable to check the site's supply rating before switching on two or more loads whose combined draw exceeds it, since this can overload the circuit and trip the breaker.