Lunar Venus Owner's Handbook (2019)
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Lunar Venus Owner's Handbook (2019).
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Water pump runs very noisy but does not pump water Possible Cause: Pump is air locked (likely to occur after water container has been refilled) | Unplug from socket allowing pump to flood, and reconnect by plugging in again. The correct sequence when refilling the container is to unplug, replace pump in container, then reconnect. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump fails to deliver water Possible Cause: Air in the system | Switch off the pump and shake the pump assembly in the water. Then switch on again. Alternatively, make sure the assembly is positioned fully into the housing. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run at all Possible Cause: Blown fuse, faulty connections, or excessive continuous running | Check for blown fuse or faulty connections. If due to excessive continuous running, replace the pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump will not run Possible Cause: Pump could be faulty or a wire disconnected. | Check that the pump isolating switch is turned on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump cycles on/off Possible Cause: Battery voltage may be too low (at or below 10.5 Volts). / Air or water leaks in taps and piping. / Non-return valve may be held open by grit. | Adjust switch and/or recharge battery. Check for air or water leaks in taps and piping, then re-adjust pressure switch. Study the exploded drawing and remove the three assembly screws to gain access to the non-return valve to remove grit. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: Battery voltage may be too low (at or below 10.5 volts). / Air lock in the pipe-work. | Check all connections in the pipe-work. Remove the adjusting screw; if motor still runs, pump is probably air locked. Turn off the isolator switch and reprime the pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Fresh water level low (less than 25% full) with pump turned on Possible Cause: Onboard water tank level has dropped below 25%. | Message on screen and 30 second audible beep. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Leisure battery voltage low (falls below 10V) Possible Cause: Leisure battery voltage level is critically low. | Message on screen (or flashing LED bar graph on EC350) and 30 second audible beep. If no action taken after 30 seconds then the system will switch the power off to prevent severe discharge of the battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Leisure battery voltage high (rises above 15.4V) Possible Cause: Battery voltage is excessively high. | Message on screen (or flashing LED bar graph on EC350) and repeated beeps from the control panel. The beeping will not stop until the fault is cleared. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Engine running - system power turned off Possible Cause: Vehicle engine has been started. | Message on screen (EC360 only) and power button LED flashing indicating both batteries are connected for charging. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Connecting lead between the site and Leisure Vehicle not connected. / RCD switched off. / RCD not operating correctly. / MCB switched off. / No or deficient supply from site. | Check and connect lead as per 2.3C. Reset RCD as per 2.3D. Check supply polarity; if the RCD continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. Reset MCB by switching OFF (down position) then back ON (up position), if the MCB continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. Contact site Warden for assistance, or contact your Dealer for other faults. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Control Panel problems (no display / locked / erratic function) Possible Cause: Backlight/illumination may have switched off. / Control panel software may have crashed. | Press the power button or select button to reactivate the backlight. Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU shutdown switch and charger switch on and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel, or contact your Dealer. For software crashes, reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch, wait 30 seconds then turn the switch back on. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | 12v Power turns off unexpectedly Possible Cause: Battery protect feature has operated to protect the Vehicle battery and or the Leisure battery. / Engine has been started, all equipment has been disconnected to meet EMC requirements. | See section 3.6 for battery protect details and section 2.4 for engine running requirements. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No 230V supply. / Charger not switched on. / Battery not connected and/or charged. / Power button on control panel not switched on. / Battery flat / Battery fuse blown. / Fuse blown. / Equipment switched off / unplugged. | Check 230V supply and connections. Turn charger switch on (switch will illuminate). Install charged battery as per 3.3. Turn power on at control panel. Recharge battery, check fuses, check charging voltage is present at battery. Check all fuses are intact and the correct value fuse is installed as per fuse table. Check equipment is switched on and connected to the 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | PSU overheated / auto shutdown operated Possible Cause: PSU has overheated under heavy loads or restricted ventilation. | Reduce load on system. Ensure ventilation slots have a clear flow of air. Allow PSU to cool down. PSU will automatically restart when cool. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown. / Pump turned off at control panel. / Setting incorrect. | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. Turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel. Ensure the pump setting matches your desired requirement (internal/external); if incorrect, see your dealer to alter the setting. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Clock is not shown | Set clock | DIY Safe |
N/A | Activated timer is not shown any more Possible Cause: Power supply was interrupted | Set timer 2 | DIY Safe |
N/A | Room temperature is not shown Possible Cause: Heater not active | Check that the heater is active and ensure room temperature is displayed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Device does not react any more | Interrupt power supply for 10 seconds | DIY Safe |
N/A | Heater / display does not react | Check 12V supply voltage | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (Inadequate ventilation to the unit) Possible Cause: Inadequate ventilation to the unit | Check that the ventilation grilles are not covered. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (Thermostat setting is too low) Possible Cause: Thermostat setting is too low | Set thermostat to a higher level. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (The condenser is heavily frosted) Possible Cause: The condenser is heavily frosted | Check that the refrigerator door closes properly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (Too much warm food has been stored inside within short period of time) Possible Cause: Too much warm food has been stored inside within short period of time | Allow warm food to cool down before storage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (The appliance has been running for only a short period of time) Possible Cause: The appliance has been running for only a short period of time | Check whether the cooling compartment works after approximately 4-5 hours. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (Ambient temperatures too high) Possible Cause: Ambient temperatures too high | Regularly remove ventilation grilles. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode (Gas cylinder empty) Possible Cause: Gas cylinder empty | Change gas cylinder. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode (Is the supply shut-off device open?) Possible Cause: Supply shut-off device closed | Open the shut-off device. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode (Air in the gas pipe?) Possible Cause: Air in the gas pipe | Switch off the appliance and start again. Repeat this procedure 3-4 times, if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation (On-board fuse defective) Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation (On-board battery discharged) Possible Cause: On-board battery discharged | Check battery, charge it. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation (Engine not running) Possible Cause: Engine not running | Start engine. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation (Heating element defective) Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation (On-board fuse defective) Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation (No connection to supply voltage) Possible Cause: No connection to supply voltage | Establish power connection. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation (AES: gas operation despite connection to the supply voltage?) Possible Cause: Insufficient supply voltage causing appliance to switch to gas operation | Appliance switches to gas operation due to insufficient supply voltage (automatically switches back to 230V operation). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation (Heating element defective) Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Oven, hob & grill burners burn unevenly Possible Cause: Gas bottle is empty, gas tap is closed, burner caps are not correctly positioned, or burners are wet or clogged | Change gas bottle, open tap, allow caps to cool then reposition them, or clean/dry burners. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Oven, hob & grill spark ignition does not spark Possible Cause: 12V DC battery is discharged, connections are loose, or ignition points are wet or dirty | Charge battery, secure connections, or dry/clean ignition points. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Oven, hob & grill control knobs do not function Possible Cause: Knobs are mounted incorrectly | Install knobs correctly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Thetford cassette toilet waste holding tank cannot be removed Possible Cause: Blade is (partly) open | Fully close the blade. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Thetford cassette toilet blade does not move Possible Cause: Blade is blocked | Loosen cap from pour out spout. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Thetford cassette toilet waste holding tank level indication does not work Possible Cause: Mechanism level indication in waste holding tank is stuck | Remove mechanism from waste holding tank and rinse it with tap water. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Thetford cassette toilet waste holding tank leaks Possible Cause: Seal is dry or worn | Spray seal with seal lubricant. Replace seal if worn. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV antenna: Very Poor (No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out) | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV antenna: Poor (Moderate pixilation and sound distortion) | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV antenna: Medium (Minor pixilation will not receive all channels) | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV antenna: Strong (Possible pixilation, picture break up and drop out) | Reduce the amplifier gain (rotate anti-clockwise). Rotate antenna AWAY from the transmitter. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV antenna: Very Strong (No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out) | Rotate antenna AWAY from transmitter. Switch 'OFF' the amplifier and turn the gain control to maximum (rotate clockwise). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV antenna amplifier LED does not light Possible Cause: No power to the unit or incorrect polarity | Firstly check there is power to the unit. Secondly check the polarity is correct. Otherwise contact manufacturer for further assistance. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I check the left and right friction pads on the AKS 3004 stabiliser?
1. Check that the stabiliser is correctly coupled by ensuring the coupling handle is fully down and the red indicator button is in the raised position. 2. Push the stabiliser handle down until resistance is felt (i.e. the friction pads are in contact with the ball but not yet under pressure). 3. Check the position of the arrowhead on the arm of the stabiliser. If it lines up with the two green lines then the friction pads are still as new. 4. If the arrowhead lines up with the two red lines then the friction pads are worn and should be replaced immediately. Note: When the stabiliser handle is correctly applied, the arrowhead should line up with the black line marked 2. The friction pads do not require any form of lubrication and should be cleaned with a fine emery paper prior to every journey. It is not necessary to adjust the friction pads.
Q: How do I fit the Al-Ko Secure Wheel Lock?
We recommend the use of a side-lift jack for easier fitting when used on a tandem axle caravan (Order No. Al-Ko Jack Set 1389235). Align the wheel so that the receiver can be seen in the centre of the rim opening (DO NOT use the rim opening in which the tyre valve is fitted). Unscrew the plastic cap from the receiver and store in the tool kit box. Insert the locking bolt into the rim specific insert. Insert the locking bolt socket key. Line up the locking bolts and assembly with the receiver. Tighten the locking bolt socket using the wheel spanner provided (or torque wrench) to wheel torque. Remove the locking bolt socket key. Insert barrel lock. Hold the lock fast and lock.
Q: How do I connect and prime the fresh water system for the first time?
1. Fill the fresh water container and place it alongside the wall socket located on the offside external wall of the caravan. 2. Ensure the pump isolator switch at the control panel inside the caravan is switched off. 3. Open the hot kitchen tap, ensuring all other taps are closed. 4. Place the pump into the water container outside, ensuring it reaches the bottom. 5. Lift the lid of the wall socket and fit the pump assembly plug fully into the socket. 6. Adjust the dust cover over the container opening. 7. Switch on the pump isolator switch at the control panel. 8. Wait until water flows freely from the hot kitchen tap, let it flow for a few more seconds to release trapped air, then turn it off. Repeat the procedure with the cold kitchen tap.
Q: How do I prepare the water system for winter storage to prevent frost damage?
a. The whole system must be drained. b. Open kitchen taps (lever taps should be lifted in central position) and leave them open permanently. c. Open bathroom and shower taps (including shower on/off control rose) and leave open permanently. d. Shake the shower head to remove held water and remove the shower head from the hose. e. Remove the cold water drain plug (if fitted), normally located under the caravan near the water inlet socket. f. Remove any remaining water from plumbing at water inlet sockets and in-line pressure switch plumbing. g. Disconnect cartridge or in-line filters from plumbing. h. Submersible pumps should be shaken out and stored in a dry place. i. Drain the external shower bridge connection on the Ultraflow housing by inserting the shower connection or opening the valve with a tool.
Q: How do I prime the water system if my caravan is fitted with a submersible pump?
1. Trapped air in the submersible pump will not allow the pump to prime. Air can be released by gently shaking the pump under water while the pump is in the water tank but is switched off. 2. If an external submersible pump is used, place the pump in the water before connecting to the side of the van.
Q: How do I adjust the pressure switch?
1. With the system properly primed, close all taps and showers. 2. Leave the power supply turned on. 3. Tighten the adjusting screw (clockwise). The pump should now be running. 4. Partly open one cold tap to allow water to flow at about 1 pint per 15 seconds. 5. Now slowly loosen the adjusting screw until the switch starts to click. The switch will then be properly adjusted.
Q: Why does my mains hook-up keep tripping the circuit breaker?
It is possible that all of the 230V mains electrical equipment may not be able to be operated simultaneously. A typical UK caravan park mains hook up point provides a maximum output of 16 amps, although 10 amps is more common and on some continental sites the available output may be as low as 5 amps. If your loading exceeds the site supply it may trip the park’s circuit breaker. Please check the available mains output with your site operator. The consumption figures for individual appliances are: Fridge 0.5 amps, Charger 1.0 amps, Water heater (max) 5.7 amps, Blown air heaters 4.8 amps, Colour TV 2.5 amps, Microwave 3.5 amps, Air conditioning 4.0 amps, Truma Ultraheat (max) 8.3 amps, Kettle 3.2 amps, and Alde central heating 10.0 amps.
Q: Which MCB protects which circuit, and why might one trip specifically?
Exceeding the total amperage limit of the site's circuit breaker under combined load will cause it to trip. The 230V mains equipment power consumption and current outputs are governed by the PSU specification: INPUT 230V is 230 Volts / 0 to 16 Amps +/- 10%; OUTPUT 230V is RCD protected with 3 MCB outputs consisting of 1 x 16A and 2 x 10A, with separate switched channels for the water heater, space heater, and charger. Specific appliance electrical selections include the Truma Combi boiler at 900W (3.9A) or 1800W (7.8A), and the Dometic refrigerator operating on AC mains power (230V).
Q: How do I exchange the battery in the Dometic refrigerator igniter?
Unlock the battery by depressing and turning the button (C) approximately 90 degrees anti-clockwise. Remove the cap and exchange the battery (1.5V AAA / R3 / Micro), ensuring you observe correct polarity.
Q: How do I operate the oven and grill safely?
Open the door and push the control knob. Continue pressing and turn anti-clockwise to the full rate position. For spark ignition models, push the ignition button; for non-ignition models, hold a lit match or gas match to the burner. Keep the control knob pressed for about 10-15 seconds, release, and adjust the required heat setting. The grill door must remain open when lighting and using the grill. Always turn the control knob to the 0 position after use.
Q: How do I empty and prepare the Thetford cassette toilet waste holding tank?
To prepare, remove the tank via the service door, place upright with the pour out spout upwards, remove the cap, add the correct dosage of waste holding tank additive and approximately 3L of water, then replace the cap and slide back into position. To empty, pull the tank to an authorised waste disposal point, remove the cap, press and hold the vent button with your thumb while the pour out spout points downwards to empty, add approximately 5L of water, gently shake to clean, empty again, rinse the float with tap water, fold in the handle, and slide the tank back into the toilet.
Q: How do I operate and tune the Status TV antenna system?
Loosen the mast locking collar and raise the antenna. Determine whether transmissions are horizontal or vertical and position accordingly. Switch on the amplifier (LED illuminates) and ensure gain is set to MIN by rotating anti-clockwise. Rotate the antenna: red indicates poor signal, yellow means getting better, and green means signals are located. If there is no green, increase gain and repeat 360-degree rotation. Once the transmitter is located, increase gain to MAX, turn on your television set, and tune in.
Q: How do I adjust the tension of the flyscreens and sunscreens?
Tension adjustment clips are located at the left side of the cassette (top for flyscreen, lower for sunscreen). Insert a screwdriver into the tension clip, apply gentle inward pressure, and rotate one or two clockwise turns to increase tension or anti-clockwise to reduce tension. Gently release inward pressure to enable the tension clip to re-engage into its internal ratchet. Check tension and repeat if necessary until crossbars return to their top positions without too much assistance. Do not overtension.
Q: How do I convert the front seats into a double bed?
Lift the front edge of the bed frame slightly in the centre (just enough to clear the carpet without colliding with the bedside cabinet), then pull the bed frame edge towards the centre of the vehicle. The back rests will drop into the void to make up the bedding. To convert back to side seats, reverse the operation.
Q: How do I transfer the Lunar warranty to a new owner if I sell my caravan?
The Lunar warranty may be transferred to a new owner providing the caravan has been regularly serviced by a Lunar or NCC Approved Workshop (AWS). The transfer must be made within 28 days of the date subsequent ownership was taken. You must provide full documentary evidence that the vehicle has been serviced annually, along with evidence of the sales receipt, and pay an administration fee of £50. Send the completed change of ownership form and documentation to: Lunar Caravans Limited, After Sales Department, Sherdley Road, Lostock Hall, Preston, PR5 5JF.
Q: What are the service interval requirements to maintain the validity of the Lunar warranty?
To maintain the warranty, your caravan must have an annual service and damp check by an approved workshop using genuine parts and recommended sealants. In years 1, 3 and 6, the service must be completed no more than 60 days before or on the anniversary of the date of purchase (and must not exceed that date). In years 2, 4 and 5, the services must be completed no more than 60 days either side of the anniversary of the date of purchase, with no service interval exceeding 14 months.